Chef Mark Vetri learned to prepare rustic Italian cuisine (rabbit loin and sweetbreads wrapped in pancetta with morels; baby goat poached in milk and then oven roast to crispness) from Italy’s best chefs and then brought his skills home to Philly. Ensconced in the tiny, 35-seat space on the edge of the theater district, once occupied by other pinnacle establishments (Le Bec-Fin, Chanterelle), Vetri is intent on creating likewise legendary meals. Sweet quirkiness is his trademark (Vetri shaves prosciutto on a 1936 Berkel meat slicer right in the dining room). The wine list has been nationally lauded, and the service is seamless. An a la carte menu is offered Monday through Friday; on weekends, indulge in Vetri’s five- or seven-course fixed-price menus (not available during the summer).

Vetri Information:

• Italian menu. Dinner. Closed Sun; first week of Jan, three weeks in Aug, last week of Dec. Business casual attire. Reservations recommended.