Chef/owner Jose Duarte hails from Peru, got started cooking among Italian immigrants in Venezuela, and has had a steady hit on his hands since opening the North End's only Peruvian-Italian fusion restaurant. His signature shrimp ravioli in a pesto of pine nuts and Peruvian black mint demonstrates the easy cohibitation of the two cuisines, as does his substitution of quinoa for rice in the saffron "risotto" accompanying braised veal shanks. The piquant lift to many of Duarte's sauces comes from his careful use of the rocoto pepper, another Peruvian native, but the new-world fillips never overwhelm what is essentially old-world comfort food prepared with flair and served with style.

Taranta Information:

• Italian menu, Peruvian. Dinner. Closed 4th of July and Thanksgiving. Casual attire.