Gracing Brentwood’s Restaurant Row with raw-fish delicacies that many foodies and sushi-savvy Hollywood players place among the city’s best, Takao dispenses with ambitious ambience to concentrate on its customers’ palates. The small, basic, pseudo-diner-style space serves as a neutral canvas for colorful specialties (some flown in fresh from Japan) like bonito and kampachi yellowtail. While extolling the restaurant’s delightfully spicy rolls, the smart, very helpful waitstaff also highlights the non-fish and more budget-friendly offerings, which include tempura, teriyaki, and a satisfying bento box lunch special.

Takao Information:

• Japanese menu. Lunch, dinner. Closed for lunch every Sunday. Casual attire. Reservations recommended. Valet parking. Credit cards accepted.