One of the oldest Western settlements in Alaska, Sitka was established at the beginning of the 19th century as a fur trading outpost and fort by the Russian American Company under the leadership of Alexander Baranov. Originally called New Archangel, it served as the capital of Russian Alaska until 1867, when a waning fur trade and domestic economic upheaval led the Russian government to sell its stake in the New World. The transfer of ownership of Alaska from Russian to the United States took place on Castle Hill and a series of plaques on the site now provide visitors with a detailed account of that event. Modern Sitka retains strong ties to its past, as evidenced by the Russian architecture of Saint Michael’s Cathedral in the middle of downtown – a replica of the original that burned to the ground in 1966, the restored Russian Bishop’s house across from Crescent harbor, and Russian Cemetery at the end of Observatory Street. Evidence of the older, Tlingit civilization in the area can be found on the east end of town at the Sheldon Jackson Museum, which contains a stunning display of native arts and crafts. Further down the road is Sitka National Historic Park, which features a collection of 15 totem poles set along a meandering forest trail. Pamphlets available in the park’s visitor center provide detailed explanations of each of the totems, so it’s best to stop off there first. The center also houses an extensive native history museum, a collection of delicate wood carvings that could not survive outdoors in Sitka’s rainy climate, and a woodworking shop where native Alaskan crafts are fashioned and art classes taught.