In a town where chef Rick Bayless and his Frontera Grill (see) rule the gourmet Mexican roost, Salpicon remains an in-the-know treasure. Chef Priscilla Satkoff grew up in Mexico City and honors her native cuisine here with rich moles, tender-roasted meats, and upscale twists on both, such as ancho chile quail. The extensive wine list, managed by the chef's husband, has won numerous awards, but it's hard to get past the 50-some tequilas on offer to mix in margaritas. Salpicon's bold colors mix well with the colorful paintings on the walls, and the pink and white double tablecloths are offset by black and white tiles.

Salpicon Information:

• Mexican menu. Lunch, dinner. Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25. Bar. Casual attire. Reservations recommended. Valet parking. Outdoor seating. Credit cards accepted.