Highlights: The Aerie Resort

•Like The Aerie’s namesake eagle’s nest, this resort is built high on a mountainside with unparalleled views over the ocean

•Secluded luxury makes this a perfect destination for romantic getaways and weddings

•Chinese silk carpeting and European furnishings create a cozy ambiance in guest rooms

•Wine cellar has more than 600 listings, including an excellent selection of award-winning Pacific Northwest wines

•Facilities can accommodate small corporate retreats or meetings

•A variety of “to do” packages are available, including ones focusing on culinary, golf, spa, and nature-and-wildlife viewing

Amenities: The Aerie Resort

• 29 rooms, 3 story. Complimentary full breakfast. Restaurant, bar. Indoor pool, whirlpool.

General Impressions: The Aerie Resort

A 30-minute drive from Victoria, British Columbia’s capital on Vancouver Island, The Aerie Resort resembles a Mediterranean resort on 85 acres high above the ocean, with stunning views over Finlayson Arm, the Saanich Peninsula, and Washington State’s Olympic Mountains. The Aerie is a member of the Relais & Chateaux group.

It’s secluded and quiet, and anyone wanting nightlife and entertainment would probably be happier in a downtown Victoria hotel. But lovers of nature, birders, food aficionados, and people looking for a romantic getaway should be happy here.

On my first visit five years ago, the swimming pool left much to be desired in terms of stained walls, but a recent trip shows that this problem has been solved with a pool upgrade. There’s also a new gym with high-quality cardio equipment, and a beautiful new building, Villa Cielo, with six luxurious suites and an exhibition kitchen where The Aerie’s chef, Christophe Letard, hosts cooking demonstrations.

The Cowichan Valley area of Vancouver Island is rich in natural beauty, and some have compared it to France’s Provence region. Mountains, old-growth forests, lakes, and rivers draw nature-lovers from across North America. The lush land offers prime growing conditions for vineyards and specialty farms. The Aerie capitalizes on all this by offering a variety of programs for guests. Activities are all available without buying a package, but it’s convenient to have all the planning and transportation arrangements done for you.

I did not find The Aerie a suitable destination for young families, as there are no provisions to entertain children. Victoria, or one of the small coastal towns along the island’s eastern shores, would be more appropriate.

The Aerie closes each year from Jan 5-20, so plan accordingly.

(+) An oasis from crowded cities, it’s a great location for nature lovers, spa fans, and those wanting to “get away from it all”
(-) It’s a 30-minute drive from the main town, and offers limited amenities for families with young children

Guest Services: The Aerie Resort

Making arrangements for my visit to the Aerie Resort, my reservation was handled efficiently, and I was directed to the Web site for driving directions.

I chose the Sea to Sky package, which begins at Seattle’s Pier 69 where I boarded the catamaran Victoria Clipper for a three-hour ocean voyage to Victoria’s Inner Harbour. A rental car was awaiting my arrival. An alternative package includes helicopter transportation from Vancouver, or from Boeing Field in Washington State. Independent travelers would usually take a ferry from Tsawwassen, just south of Vancouver, to Schwarz Bay on Vancouver Island.

I drove about 30 minutes to reach The Aerie, climbing the winding Malahat Highway before spotting the signs which had me turn onto Ebadora Lane and the resort. Check-in was prompt and friendly, with my in-room massage treatment confirmed (the treatment was included in the package).

My package included dinner for two, and staff cheerfully accommodated my request to change the original booking, despite the restaurant being busy. They were equally amiable about changing my scheduled in-room massage treatment to an in-spa treatment.

My luggage was taken by a staffer who guided me to my suite and gave me a helpful orientation, showing me the wireless Internet connection (no charge), the DVD and CD players, and the flat-screen TV. Local (and toll-free) phone calls are free, he reminded me.

I opted to enjoy breakfast on my deck, but had to wait more than 30 minutes for my order to arrive. The food was just as I requested it, but the kitchen had forgotten cream for my coffee. This was rectified promptly. A morning newspaper was delivered to my door, as promised.

I found the staff invariably pleasant, polite, and helpful -- an improvement on my previous visit.

(+) Cheerful, polite staff willing to “go the extra mile”

Guest Rooms: The Aerie Resort

My suite was comfortable with the promised stunning view, and was elegantly decorated in muted earth tones, with a fireplace (not working on my arrival, but fixed the next day), a Chinese silk carpet on the dark hardwood floor, and European-style furnishings. A bowl of fresh fruit was placed in the living room, along with a plate of cookies -- a warm and welcome greeting.

Bed linen was of fine quality, topped by a down-filled duvet which proved much too hot for summer’s needs; my request for a lightweight blanket was met the next morning. The bathroom was spacious and elegant, stocked with a generous amount of fine-quality amenities. Towels were lush, large, and luxurious.

Both the bedroom and living room had a TV and DVD, with a CD player in the living room. A couple of Cape Cod-style chairs furnished my deck. I would have liked to see fitted cushions here, but the view was so beautiful that the oversight was easily forgiven.

I also asked to see a suite in Villa Cielo, and was impressed with the 32-foot high ceilings in the foyer. Brazilian hardwood floors are featured throughout, and the suite was richly furnished. Bathrooms feature double showers, soaker tubs-for-two, and heated floors.

(+) A suite in Villa Cielo is the most desirable choice, but the Residence Building offers elegant, comfortable accommodations, too
(-) A few missing touches include a lightweight alternative to the duvet, and cushions on deck chairs

Facilities & Activities: The Aerie Resort

The great outdoors is visible from treatment rooms in The Aerie’s spa. I’m pleased that I changed from having my session in my guest room, as originally planned, to having it in the spa, where the ambience is more suited to treatments. Two massage rooms, a wrap room, and two rooms for aesthetics make this a relatively small spa, but what it lacks in size is compensated for in the quality of treatments. I had possibly the best massage ever, and I’ve visited a lot of spas.

Tennis courts are well used, and yoga classes and private fitness instruction are available.

One of the hotel’s strengths is its packages, appealing to those interested in birding, cooking, golf, and spas. But if you prefer to organize your own day, staff will suggest routes to explore and nearby activities to enjoy, including specialty farms, a falconry, wineries, and artisan studios. And Victoria, with its great shopping, colorful Inner Harbour, and award-winning museum, is only a half-hour drive.

Dining & Lounge: The Aerie Resort

Dining at The Aerie can be a superb experience, I was told by a fellow guest who’s a frequent visitor. The restaurant is popular with local residents, but on the last occasion I dined there it was disappointing and service was slow.

The dining room is well designed, with areas enclosed enough that small groups and private parties don’t feel as if they’re disrupting fellow guests. And the view, as with most rooms in this resort, is spectacular.

Most notable is The Aerie’s wine cellar, with more than 600 listings, including an excellent selection of award-winning Pacific Northwest wines. It’s worthwhile taking an impromptu tour of the showpiece cellar, one of two built beneath the dining room and housing more than 6,000 bottles. Some 20 selections of hard-to-find British Columbia wines are available by the glass, allowing for some experimentation.

A small lounge is incorporated into the dining room, but there is no separate lounge.

(+) Superb wine cellar houses more than 6,000 bottles
(-) No separate lounge available

Business Services: The Aerie Resort

During the past few years, The Aerie has made its mark on businesses looking for exclusive corporate retreats.

Two meeting rooms are available, one accommodating up to 30 people, and the second up to 45. Up to 100 guests can be catered to in banquet style, and the Residence Building (containing one of the meeting rooms) can be reserved for a group’s exclusive use.

All rooms and suites offer voice mail and in-room complimentary wireless Internet. Internet is also accessible at the concierge desk.

(+) Ideal for smaller corporate retreats or incentive travel
(-) The resort is primarily for leisure, and business facilities are limited