Thomas Keller, the chef at the fabled French Laundry, calls his restaurant in the Time Warner Center “per se” because it’s not exactly the French Laundry, per se. What’s missing is the bucolic setting of the Napa Valley, but in its place are eye-popping views and equally incredible cooking. The best way to enjoy per se is to order a tasting menu and enjoy the three hours of culinary epiphanies exemplified by small dishes such as truffles and custard in an eggshell and foie gras accompanied by various salts.

per se Information:

• American, French menu. Lunch, dinner. Closed two weeks in late July-early August. Business casual attire. Reservations recommended. Valet parking. Credit cards accepted.