A sophisticated spot in the heart of North Beach, this Tuscan ristorante has thrived in the city’s Italian district for more than 30 years (though it received a facelift in the 1990s). Waiters in tuxes complement the traditional fare, which features fresh fish, veal, and pasta. House specialties include spaghetti with vodka, sand dabs, and pasta with bay shrimp and cream sauce. Slide up to the granite bar and peruse the sizable wine selection (nearly 600 vintages); the list also includes 75 types of grappa. Sidewalk tables in nice weather provide a great place to sip an espresso and enjoy people-watching at this busy intersection.

North Beach Information:

• Italian menu. Lunch, dinner. Closed holidays. Bar. Business casual attire. Reservations recommended. Valet parking. Outdoor seating.