Although Nick’s specializes in seafood, it acts in every other way like a steakhouse. Consider the dark, subterranean room with low ceilings, colorful celebrity pictures, and attentive tuxedoed waiters. Traditional preparations like lobster bisque and lobster thermador encourage the simile. But in the kitchen, Nick is all about fish. An operation born in Hawaii in the mid-1960s, Nick’s reveals its roots in Hawaiian fish specials and the “Maui Wowie” salad. Appetizers feature shellfish, sashimi, and caviar, followed by sole, salmon, and lobster entrées. The street-level bar serves casual versions.

Nick's Fishmarket Information:

• Seafood menu. Lunch, dinner. Closed Sun. Bar. Business casual attire. Reservations recommended. Valet parking.