You don't expect an overlooked gem of a restaurant to be housed on busy Wells Street in Chicago's River North area. But Naniwa is hidden in plain sight. Distinct from the many trendy sushi joints that double as lounges, Naniwa plays it straight with good, fresh fish and deluxe maki rolls. Indoor tables are close together, but in nice weather the patio offers prime viewing of the passing parades of people on Wells. Open for lunch, Naniwa does a big to-go business with area office workers.

Naniwa Information:

• Japanese menu. Lunch, dinner. Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25. Bar. Casual attire. Reservations recommended. Valet parking. Outdoor seating.