Jean-Robert at Pigall’s serves the sort of inventive, high-quality food that has fans, who pay $75 for three courses, feel as though they’ve had a bargain. Chef Jean-Robert de Cavel reinvigorated the hoary Pigall’s with fresh, sophisticated decor and a lively new menu. Although changed to reflect the season, Pigall’s French cuisine is typified by cauliflower vichyssoise with truffles, crab and melon salad with caviar, and bacon-wrapped guinea fowl. The chef engenders goodwill by frequently issuing surprise plates on the house.

Jean-Robert at Pigall's Information:

• French menu. Lunch, dinner. Closed Sunday and Monday; Holidays. Bar. Business casual attire. Reservations recommended. Valet parking. Credit cards accepted.