Smoke from hickory wood fires imbues the meats at this upstart with unforgettable, deep flavor. Lush chunks of pulled pork, surprisingly moist turkey breast, sliced brisket, and pork ribs are seductive, as is black bean-corn salad and tart, fried green tomatoes. Try the barbecue Frito pie, with chopped brisket and jalapeno slices.

Holy Smokes Information:

• American menu. Lunch, dinner. Bar. Casual attire.