Don’t let the rain keep you away, though. Even though Hilo is the largest city on the Big Island, with a population approaching 50,000, it’s quaint and charming with a main boulevard along the bayfront that’s lined with tall and lovely banyan trees—hence the name, Banyan Drive. Its downtown has been partially restored, making it an enjoyable place to do some leisurely shopping. Not too far from the retail scene, on the waterfront, is Likiuokalani Gardens, a 30-acre Japanese garden that oozes tranquility.
Despite its charm, Hilo is more of a day-trip destination because it doesn’t front a stellar beach, nor does it have many hotels.
When visitors venture east to Hilo, most also take the scenic drive along the dramatic Hamakua Coast, which begins north of the city and stretches for about 50 miles of pure eye candy. It’s home to a lush rain forest, numerous waterfalls, tropical gardens, and tall coastal cliffs that overlook the ocean below. The 6-mile-long Waipio Valley and the fern-laden Akaka Falls are two popular attractions on this coast.