The restaurant market is filled with formulaic steakhouse concepts: lots of beef paired with lots of testosterone, served up in a dark wood-paneled boys’ club of a room. Grill 23 may serve lots of beef (seven juicy cuts are available, and each is dry-aged USDA Prime sirloin) and indeed houses its share of testosterone (hoards of handsome men in suits line the buzzing bar), but this high-energy beefeater’s heaven is formulaic in no other way. Set in the historic Salada Tea Building in Boston’s Back Bay, Grill 23 & Bar is a vast and stunning space, with original sculptured ceilings, massive Corinthian columns, mahogany paneling, and hardwood and marble floors that give the space a sense of history and warmth. In addition to the terrific selection of USDA Prime sirloin prepared in the restaurant’s grand exhibition kitchen, the menu offers exciting and decidedly nonsteakhouse dishes as well. The “Fruits of the Sea” section includes tastings from the shimmering raw bar—lobster, shrimp, and clams—as well as caviar, sashimi, and assorted fish tartare, while entrées offer inventive American fare: roasted and grilled fish, poultry, lamb shanks, and the like. In colder months, the upstairs lounge is the place to be with its blazing fire and cozy seating.

Grill 23 & Bar Information:

• Seafood, steak menu. Dinner. Closed holidays. Bar. Business casual attire. Reservations recommended. Valet parking.