When the staff at New York’s celebrated Le Cirque 2000 packed up their knives in 2004, foodies everywhere wondered what would take the restaurant’s place in the New York Palace Hotel’s historic Villard Mansion. The answer: the opulent Gilt, whose name pays homage to the late 19th-century’s Gilded Age, when the mansion was created. The 55-seat space, with carved-wood and gilded walls, cathedral ceilings and marble fireplaces, features contemporary elements that give the dining room a modern twist while retaining its historic beauty. Chef Christopher Lee’s menu features New American options like crispy sea bass with chorizo, red bliss potatoes, garlic aioli, and saffron mussel broth. Wine is a large part of the experience, and Gilt offers an expansive-and expensive-selection to complement each dish on the Modern American menu.

Gilt Information:

• American menu. Dinner. Closed Sunday and Monday. Bar. Business casual attire. Reservations recommended. Valet parking. Credit cards accepted.