Highlights: Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka'upulehu

•Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka’upulehu is a gorgeous, lush oasis seemingly carved out of the jet-black lava on the Big Island’s Kohala Coast

•A low-profile luxury destination; a “village” with great amenities and fine dining

•Staff members do not know the word “no.” By your second day, the impeccable service is taken for granted.

•Five distinct swimming pools, including a 2.5 million gallon lava rock snorkeling “aquarium”

•Hotel offers a structured golf program for kids 5-12

•Mobil Four-Star spa and fitness center

Amenities: Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka'upulehu

• 243 rooms. Pets accepted. Check-in 3 pm, check-out Noon. High-speed Internet access, wireless Internet access. Three restaurants, two bars. Children's activity center. Fitness room, fitness classes available, spa. Beach. Five outdoor pools, children's pool, whirlpool. Golf, 18 holes. Tennis. Business center. Credit cards accepted.

General Impressions: Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka'upulehu

Located just six miles from the Big Island of Hawaii’s Kona International Airport and 30 minutes from busy Kailua-Kona, the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka’upulehu is an exceptional experience from the minute of your arrival. As I got off the plane and headed to baggage claim, a resort employee holding a discreet sign that read “Welcome Guests of Four Seasons Hualalai” greeted me. The gentleman escorted me to the shuttle for my rental car, explaining he would retrieve my bags and have them waiting by the time I returned with the car. This service meant I was first in line at the rental car window, which was hugely appreciated (by the time I headed back to the terminal and collected my luggage, the line wrapped around the building). The drive to the resort took about 20 minutes and I missed the turn the first time. The sign, “Four Seasons Hualalai,” is tastefully nestled in the lava beds that border the highway leading to the property. Upon check-in, I was greeted with fresh flower leis and wet, cool cloths.

The grounds were spectacular and there is something to see at every turn: orchids, the ocean’s crashing surf, the unusual patterns of lava rock, wild quail, and sea turtles sunning on the white sand beach. The low profile, bungalow-style buildings and meandering pathways give the resort a very homey (albeit, a luxurious home) ambience. With the exception of the lava fields surrounding the property, there are no borders or fences, yet despite its seemingly wide-open vulnerability, the resort feels like a secure world of its own. The guests were unpretentious, very open, and easy to talk to, as befits thoroughly-sated vacationers. Guests rarely leave the resort, and as I was soon to discover, I probably didn’t need my rental car.

The resort is ideally suited for families, romantics, honeymooners, and business travelers. It is also a wonderful place for children. After check-in, my child’s crib was set up with the usual--diapers, wipes, stuffed animal--but, prior to arrival, the staff had added little sponges in letter shapes neatly spelling out her name in the bathtub.

Dining options are plentiful and run the gamut from fine dining to fabulous hamburgers. There is also a great little General Store with an impressive selection of take-home gifts as well as sundries, sodas, snacks, fine wines, beer, and liquor. The prices were not what you would expect from an isolated resort with no other grocery options in sight. They were very reasonable.

The Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka’upulehu aims to please and it does just that. My only regret is that I did not make this hotel the second stop of my Hawaiian island-hopping vacation--I didn’t want to waste a precious second of it on jet-lag.

(+) Stunning island setting, exceptional service, and all the makings of a real holiday

Guest Services: Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka'upulehu

Four Seasons’ properties are known for outstanding service. Combine that reputation with the gracious hospitality synonymous with the Big Island of Hawaii and you will find the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka’upulehu. From the airport greeting and handling of luggage pick-up to the assistance we received at check-out, the staff truly made an effort to anticipate our needs.

When I called the concierge for a restaurant suggestion she quickly determined that I was traveling with a small child and made recommendations accordingly. The same consideration was demonstrated upon check-out when the concierge suggested my husband drop off me and my baby at the airport before returning the rental car, “so that you don’t have to get on the shuttle.”

The rooms were immaculate and housekeeping made their presence known by keeping our room in pristine condition. Everywhere we went on the property we were greeted with a soft “Hello” or “Aloha,” and while the staff is abundant and readily available, they are unobtrusive.

(+) Gracious Hawaiian and Four Seasons hospitality combine to make for an unforgettable experience

Guest Rooms: Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka'upulehu

The Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka’upulehu is an 865-acre resort with 243 guest rooms comprised of 36 low-rise bungalows. Of this total, there are 30 one- and two-bedroom suites and one three-bedroom presidential suite. Rooms are equipped with two-line telephones, high-speed Internet service, in-room safes, 42-inch plasma televisions, and offer 24-hour room service, express laundry and dry cleaning, and nightly turndown. Spacious marble bathrooms feature deep-soaking bathtubs, separate toilet areas, glass-enclosed showers, and (on the garden level) additional outdoor showers.

There are two things you immediately notice upon opening your door at the resort no matter which room you occupy. First, the ocean view, then the welcome gift of chocolate-covered macaroons and Kona coffee beans. My room, like the hotel itself, was beyond comfortable. It was spacious with an open-air floor plan--from lanai to restroom--and simple, nature-inspired décor. The end effect was a room tasteful and uncluttered and completely non-competing with the beauty filtering in from outside. The fabrics were in earth tones, and there were decorative accents of bamboo and thatch that blended nicely with the slate floors and sisal rugs. My canopy bed was romantic but, for true love, I would have to go with the bath amenities. The changing and bath areas were generously stocked with L'Occitane products from France. The walk-in closet was quite large with two separate racks and room to place luggage out of sight.

I was surprised, given the level of privacy guests expect, that the rooms were not entirely soundproof. Word of advice: sleep with your sliding glass doors open and listen to the sound of the surf rolling to shore.

(+) Plush guest rooms offer tasteful luxury with top-of-the line amenities and phenomenal views
(-) Guest rooms aren’t soundproof

Facilities & Activities: Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka'upulehu

Walking into the Mobil Four-Star, Four Season’s Hualalai Sports Club and Spa is like entering a resort unto itself. You are greeted with a warm welcome and a cold bottle of water. After confirming or making your appointment for a treatment, you are given a key to a locker and pointed in the direction of the entrance of what will be an amazing spa experience. The spa’s facilities are arranged around a beautiful, full-size swimming pool with designated lap lanes and a dozen lounge chairs. I alternated between the pool, the eucalyptus steam, the ice pond, the pool, the sauna, the lounge chairs, and back to the eucalyptus steam.

The 2,000-square-foot fitness center offered an impressive selection of equipment and the room itself was stunning, well laid-out, and open to the natural beauty of the surrounding landscape and secluded tennis courts. The massage treatments were reasonably priced and left me pleasantly relaxed. On the way out I asked if I could wear the cotton kimono provided in my locker back to my room. The response? A Four Seasons Hualalai, “Of course.”

Disengaging myself from the spa was only made possible by the resort’s five distinct swimming pools, each offering something unique. The infinity-edge pool is a favorite with adults who appreciate the poolside cocktails, sunglass-cleaning service, Evian spritzes, and flavored waters. I had my chair, ice water, and fruity beverage within five minutes. The lava rock aquarium pool cut directly out of ancient rock formations and stocked with more than 4,000 fish was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The snorkel gear was free for the first two hours, which gave me ample time to swim with the eagle and manta rays and other colorful tropical marine life that call this “pool” home. There is another, larger pool designed more with families in mind, complete with a sand-bottom swimming hole for the little ones.

For those traveling with children yet wanting to enjoy a day of golf on the designated PGA tour Jack Nicklaus course at the Hualalai Golf Club, there is the complimentary “Kids For All Seasons” supervised program for children ages 5-12.

This hotel really has thought of everything.

(+) Complimentary spa facilities and distinctly unique swimming pools

Dining & Lounge: Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka'upulehu

In addition to 24-hour room service, the resort offers four restaurants, two counter-service snack shops, and one lounge. The hotel's signature restaurant, Pahui’a, is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. You can’t beat the setting. It is, like much of the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka’upulehu, open to the surrounding natural beauty, with the waves seemingly breaking at your feet and the stars overhead at night. The menu is ocean-inspired, using local and seasonal produce and ingredients.

Waking early, I could stroll the grounds and enjoy complimentary Kona coffee and coconut muffins in the open-air lobby. The morning breakfast buffet was beautifully presented but not too opulent, and offered several healthy selections. One feature I will have to experience when my child is a little older is the mini, to-scale, children’s buffet, complete with low tables sporting kid-friendly selections. Although the service was attentive, we were not impressed with the busy table where we were seated -- right in the middle of the buffet thoroughfare--despite other vacant options.

Another excellent choice for lunch or dinner is The Hualalai Grille by Alan Wong (or just “Alan Wong’s” to repeat guests), located on the upper-level at the golf clubhouse. It is a less-crowded alternative with an equally impressive menu and wonderful service. I went back for the Crazy Asian Salad a couple of times. One evening I ventured into the ocean-front Lava Lounge and had a nice, comfortable evening. The beverage menu included exceptional liquors, beers, and wines, and the entertainment on Monday and Tuesdays evenings is live.

My room service experience was flawless and delicious. Besides being delivered on time, my selection was flavorful and served at the perfect temperature. It was also presented creatively and with care. My server took the initiative to put my ice cream in the refrigerator. The set-up was a little awkward, as our order was brought up on a tray as opposed to a table, so there was some quick rearranging on both our parts, but in the end it was of Four Seasons caliber, from the linen and china to the trade-winds blowing in from the lanai.

(+) Dining options are exceptional and run the gamut from fine dining to casual counter service
(+) Room service matched quality service of main dining areas

Business Services: Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka'upulehu

The business center, located in the main lobby near the concierge, is open around the clock and is set-up with all the necessities: high-speed Internet access, three computers, printers, copy and fax machines. There is no full-time staff, but all questions and assistance can be addressed to the concierge. A free DVD library is located adjacent to the business center.

(+) Business center provides all required services and amenities