Chicago chef Suzy Crofton flies well below the see-and-be-seen radar and that’s just the way aficionados—and the proprietor herself—like it. Rather than trendy, Crofton turns out elegant meals in an understated setting warmed by candlelight in River North, a region rife with look-at-me eateries. The French-trained Crofton specializes in refined American cooking that marries style and substance with attention to detail and presentation. Flavor combinations are both harmonious and exciting as typified by the sweet/savory grilled New Zealand venison medallions with sweet potato gnocchi, cherries, and peppered mascarpone. Her signature smoked apple chutney, also sold by the bottle, tops barbecued pork tenderloin and roast quail. Crofton thoughtfully caters to special interests with both a vegetarian menu and an extensive list of loose-leaf teas. Dine before 6:30 (think pre-theater) to take advantage of Crofton on Wells’ bargain four-course prix fixe.

Crofton on Wells Information:

• American menu. Lunch, dinner. Closed Sunday; Holidays. Bar. Business casual attire. Reservations recommended. Valet parking. Credit cards accepted.