This tiny, very French bistro in the basement of an apartment building a couple of blocks outside Harvard Square is something of a local secret. Chef/owner Tony Maws trained with the best in the United States, but his heart belongs to Lyon. His French bistro cooking is lovingly old-fashioned: he grinds and blends his own mustard, makes terrines and pates for appetizers and garnishes, and puts up his own duck confit. The menu is in constant flux, truly depending on what the market yields. Trust his delicate way with whatever fish looked best at the morning market. Vegetarian entrées, such as wild mushrooms on cheese-enriched polenta, are feasts rather than afterthoughts.

Craigie Street Bistrot Information:

• French bistro, International menu. Dinner. Closed Mon-Tues; also late June-early July. Casual attire. Reservations recommended.