Brassy as a trumpet solo, Chez Henri puts a Cuban shake on French bistro cooking. Chef/owner Paul O’Connell maintains a lively bar scene (the only place to get his acclaimed Cubano sandwiches) while simultaneously offering a warm but more formal dining room that’s a favorite with Harvard professors and graduate students looking for a big night out. Such upscale dishes as grilled marlin in a macadamia nut crust and steak frites with hot pepper-dusted fries could make you think you’re in South Beach. Even the bistro classic of roast chicken makes a pass through the Caribbean, arriving at the table with yucca fries. Chez Henri's wine list is commendably French and features many obscure finds; the restaurant is also celebrated for its mojitos and caipirinhas.

Chez Henri Information:

• Cuban menu, French menu. Dinner. Closed Memorial Day, July 4.