With Casa Mono (which means “monkey house”), a snug little restaurant on the corner of 17th and Irving Place, Mario Batali has stepped off familiar Italian earth and onto the culinary and fashion hotbed known as Barcelona. Grab a seat at one of the two "eat-at" bars overlooking the open kitchen and watch as the chefs deliver a menu that excites and invigorates in its simplicity. Popular picks include the sepia a la plancha (grilled squid), quail with quince, and oxtail-stuffed piquillo peppers. The decor is understated, and the tables are neat and a bit crowded, but this is the sort of place that makes you smile until your face hurts. Claim your sliver of real estate and be patient. You’ll soon be rewarded.

Casa Mono Information:

• American, Spanish menu. Lunch, dinner, late-night. Bar. Children's menu. Business casual attire. Reservations recommended.