Owned by Charlie Palmer, Aureole specializes in the kind of stylish yet comfortable fine-dining experience completely devoid of pretention—here, it really is about the food and not a celebrity chef. Orson Welles once lived in the two-story brownstone that houses Aureole, and now diners receive star treatment from courteous staff doling out hearty dishes like pork tenderloin wrapped in country ham with shrimp and porcini grits. A wine list heavy on European and California labels also includes the restaurant’s own sparkling wine, Aureole Cuvée—no doubt a popular choice for the marrying kind of guests that you frequently see here on bended knee, popping the question before dessert. Note that Aureole is expected to move sometime in 2009 into the Bank of America Tower at 1 Bryant Park; but until it settles into the new digs, enjoy what is Aureole now.

Aureole Information:

• Contemporary American menu. Dinner. Closed Sunday.