Say cheese! Artisinal is chef/owner Terrance Brennan’s ode to the stuff, and it is a glorious tribute at that. (Brennan is also chef/owner of Picholine—see also.) In addition to one of the best cheese selections this side of the Atlantic, you’ll find lovely brasserie standards like moules frites, gougères (warm, cheese-filled brioche puffs that melt in your mouth and are impossible to stop eating), frisée au lardons, and of course, cheese fondue—the house specialty. If you are more inclined to eat a meal at the bar, Artisinal’s is a terrific spot to hunker down and sample some of the best cheeses from the United States and around the world, not to mention wines, all 120 of which are available by the glass. Located in the east 30s, this is also just about the best place to eat before or after a Madison Square Garden event.

Artisanal Information:

• French bistro menu. Lunch, dinner, brunch. Bar. Casual attire. Reservations recommended.