Never mind its nondescript strip-mall setting. Step inside this family-run Silver Lake institution and discover a minor Mexi-Cali marvel. Walls adorned with colorful Mexican and Southwestern art telegraph the featured flavors, whether they are in the form of fish tacos, baked chicken enchiladas, or vegan tostadas filled with marinated cactus. Casual diners and critics have been known to say “ole!” to the homemade mole—a zesty sauce that can enrich any of Alegria’s fresh-cooked, largely grease-free entrées. For dessert, the one-of-a-kind chocolate chimichanga—a chocolate bar bundled and fried in a tortilla, then given a dollop of fruit sauce or whipped cream—should satisfy any sweet tooth.

Alegria on Sunset Information:

• California, Mexican menu. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Closed Sun; holidays. Children's menu. Casual attire. Outdoor seating.